My Adventures in 3D printing

Discussion in '3D printing files' started by CD_Erika, May 29, 2019.

  1. CD_Erika
    Offline

    CD_Erika Active member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2019
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    147
    Trophy Points:
    33
    Occupation:
    Programmer
    Location: (Country, Region - and perhaps even City?):
    Germany - Bavaria - Geisenhausen
    Local Time:
    6:56 AM
    Heya!
    This will be a little journal thread, where i'll be posting some stuff i'm working on, what troubles i run into or what i learned on my 3D design and printing journey.
    So let's start:

    Today i finished the first prototype of my own device, printed with ABS filament.
    It's basically a cage device with an added belt.
    Got kinda inspired by the CS-100 belt, but i have some issues with my own CS-100. So i began to plan a device, that could work for me.

    And that's what i came up with so far:
    DSC_0130.JPG DSC_0131.JPG DSC_0132.JPG DSC_0133.JPG DSC_0134.JPG DSC_0135.JPG prototype_worn.jpg prototype_worn2.jpg
    The lock works pretty much like the one on the CS-100, but i put it below the bolt so more material is surrounding it.
    I figured that would be more stable in a 3D print.

    Once worn i noticed, that the tube is too long and its profile creates a noticeable bulge in my pants.
    And sadly the second lock snapped of, because the layer adhesion wasn't good. Well... it isn't neccessary, but could have been a nice addition.

    ABS seems to be kinda tricky to print.
    I had an issue with the adhesion between the layers. The begining of the tube seperated where it was connected to the locking mechanism.
    DSC_0136.JPG
    Luckily this could be fixed by welding it back on with acetone.

    So i made a second version today, which will be printed over the next weekend, where the tube is more tilted towards the body and is about 1.5 cm shorter.

    For the print, i try maxing out my printers nozzle temperature at 250°C and disable the print cooling fan.
    This should lead to the layers sticking better to each other.

    P.S.: My printer is a "Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus" delta printer. Which seems to be pretty good for its price of 270€!
     
    Subsband and JosieLynn Jewell like this.
  2. JosieLynn Jewell
    Offline

    JosieLynn Jewell Long term member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2018
    Messages:
    744
    Likes Received:
    1,191
    Trophy Points:
    123
    Location: (Country, Region - and perhaps even City?):
    Michigan, USA
    Local Time:
    12:56 AM
    Hopefully 250 is hot enough - definitely disable the part fan. ABS can be as tricky, or trickier than Nylon to print (depending on your material) - I moved to printing all of my prototypes in PETG, which is nearly as strong as ABS, but with a lot less of the printing problems.

    Your design looks nice and has a nice shape, but very, very enclosed.
     
    CD_Erika likes this.
  3. CD_Erika
    Offline

    CD_Erika Active member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2019
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    147
    Trophy Points:
    33
    Occupation:
    Programmer
    Location: (Country, Region - and perhaps even City?):
    Germany - Bavaria - Geisenhausen
    Local Time:
    6:56 AM
    It turns out 250 was too hot for the brand of ABS i use. I got some burned spots in the plastic.
    So i went back to 245°C, but shutting the part fan off did the trick.
    The layers now stick pretty well.

    Was thinking about moving to PET-G too, but i want to print chastity devices i can use, not just prototypes.
    ABS can be smoothed using commonly available actetone to get smooth surfaces.
    With PET-G i wouldn't get a surface that smooth, which could cause chafing when wearing the devices.

    But i agree, for prototypes and things that don't need to be completely smooth on the surfaces, PET-G is the better choice!

    And about the enclosure. Well... I'm not experienced enough with 3D Printing and CAD yet to design a durable cage having the shape the tube has.
    But that may become my next project, after i perfected the tube design. ^_^

    For an update on my project:
    I finished printing version 3 today and am wearing it for a test run at the moment.
    In version 2 the tube was too close to the ring and pinched some skin between the tube and the ring and the tube was still too long.
    So i put a bit more distance between the tube and the ring and shortened the tube some more.
    It seems that i have found the length i was looking for and the pinching problem is gone too.

    Tomorrow i can tell, if it's wearable over night or if something breaks or damages the skin again.
     
  4. JosieLynn Jewell
    Offline

    JosieLynn Jewell Long term member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2018
    Messages:
    744
    Likes Received:
    1,191
    Trophy Points:
    123
    Location: (Country, Region - and perhaps even City?):
    Michigan, USA
    Local Time:
    12:56 AM
    PETG sands really, really well, and I get a glass-like finish on it with 800 grit wet sandpaper :) I know because I have a "friend" who spent 10 days locked straight in a ring printed in PETG and sanded smooth. Zero issues!

    Glad you're finding some of the trials and tribulations of design - I hope you enjoy it!
     
    CD_Erika and Peter Rabbit like this.
  5. thongs911
    Offline

    thongs911 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2009
    Messages:
    63
    Likes Received:
    60
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Local Time:
    12:56 AM
    I second using PETG. I have never used ABS, but PETG has worked out very well for me.
    After printing, sanding any of the spots where support was and it is perfectly smooth.
     
    CD_Erika likes this.
  6. CD_Erika
    Offline

    CD_Erika Active member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2019
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    147
    Trophy Points:
    33
    Occupation:
    Programmer
    Location: (Country, Region - and perhaps even City?):
    Germany - Bavaria - Geisenhausen
    Local Time:
    6:56 AM
    I guess, i'll try PETG when i used up the ABS. :)

    After some busy weeks, i finally had time to work on my design again.
    Next iteration is making it less enclosed for better hygene.
    MoreOpenCageBack.JPG MoreOpenCageFront.JPG
    I hope my printer is able to print this...
    Maybe if i flip it, so the front is facing down and the support from below is able to stablize all the holes rather printing them as overhangs.
    Gonna find out the coming weekend.
     
  7. thongs911
    Offline

    thongs911 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2009
    Messages:
    63
    Likes Received:
    60
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Local Time:
    12:56 AM
    I would possibly rotate the model towards the front of the tube and print it standing up with the flat part at the top being 45 to the bed. Tha way you can keep as much support out of the tube, and still get a good print.
     
  8. Lingering_In_Anguish
    Offline

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2019
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Local Time:
    12:56 AM
    You can use an acetone vapor bath to cure it, weld together the layers, and give a beautiful shiny finish to ABS.

    Place a paper towel in the bottom of a Tupperware or other sealable container container, pour just enough acetone to wet the bottom, place a sheet of aluminum foil over the towel to prevent direct contact with print. Place part on the foil, cover tightly and let sit.
    Use a clear container so you can see the part.
    I let a ball gag i printed sit in it for 2 hours then removed.
    Depending on the thickness of the part it may be longer or shorter.
    The process does not end after removing from the vapors, the reaction is still occurring, so you need to remove it before it gets to the finish you want (trial and error here).
    When ready to remove, lift the whole sheet of foil out as the shell of the part will be soft/melted.
    Leave it air out to harden over night and Ta daa! A shiny beautiful looking part made of body safe ABS.
     
  9. Lingering_In_Anguish
    Offline

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2019
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Local Time:
    12:56 AM
    Here is the print end result. Add straps and done.
     

    Attached Files:

    • bg.jpg
      bg.jpg
      File size:
      874.9 KB
      Views:
      132

Users found this page by searching for:

  1. best 3d printing filiment for chastity cages

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice