I committed the canonical sin of not checking, rechecking, checking again, before ordering. I was moving from a maturemetal cage and used the "length" measurements (minus 0.25") from my previous cage, thinking that would be the perfect size. I did not read the instructions properly, meaning that when you factor in the ring+gap, I'm probably down at least an inch and the cage feels absolutely tiny. Having said that, I tried it on because.. "might as well" and I'm sort of able to fit? It's weird, when it tries to get erect I can really feel that inside me. I can't decide if that's dangerous in the long run? The ring seems to fit OK, despite the fact it's pushed into a less fantastic position if anything excites me. I'm going to post a picture of how it looked after about 45 minutes of wearing it to see what the group things. I know deep down I really need to give in, pay for the new cage part, and take my loss for my own stupidity.. but what do you all think? (Attaching pic in reply to this, as I need to switch to my phone. I might eventually delete it, hate having this kind of stuff posted out there in the wild!)
You are in it, so it fits. Length Is usually not an issue cause your cock will adapt to that. Sometimes width is an issue because that can’t compress as well. But it looks like you are fine. It’s just a very snug cage.
Too small is subjective. Some people like nub or even flat cages. I don't like a super small cage personally. Don't like the look of being all balls no junk, its uncomfortable and hate peeing on my nuts.
I'd go with too small. Though again, it's subjective. I personally prefer to have as much of the shaft skin as possible inside the tube. I've tried other small devices that mainly just cover the head (cherry keeper). They work, but the extra skin is annoying to me.
Think he means the added room the gap adds to total length. Like if a cage is 2 inches plus say a 3/8ths ball gap you have 2 3/8ths total room for your junk. Not just the 2" for cage
Ring gap is the top/side gap between the ring and the start of the cage, the ball gap is diagonal between the bottom of the cage and the ring Ring gap: Ball gap: The ring gap is not usually super important as its just a factor of the over all length but the ball gap is a very important measurement, too small and your nuts will turn blue, you get rubbing, burn etc and too large the cage will slip down and a nut or two could pop through. The ball gap is affected by a few things such as ring size, ring gap, ring shape, cage angle and cage diameter etc I would say ball gap is probably one of the most important measurements but its often overlooked.
This is why unless you get lucky or try a lot of devices custom is the only real way for long term, with a lot of off the shelf devices the only thing you can change is usually ring size which has an impact on the ball gap but its only part of the equation
Guess I've been lucky that 3/8ths gap all around works about perfectly for me. So I cab do long term without a custom cage. Not I don't want one, just don't need one.
After about 30 devices I found a perfect off the shelf plastic one but I decided I wanted similar but in titanium with some small tweaks, it looks and feels much better, amazing what 1 or 2mm here or there can do.
They do look really good but I ruled them out as they don't do titanium and I wanted it as light as possible
After wearing what I have overnight I woke up to find one ball had slipped out of the ring which has never happened before (I got a slightly larger ring size and I guess the curved nature makes it even slightly bigger). I guess I'm going to have to go back to the drawing board and reorder to fix this! Can't blame anyone but myself
Before you order, do LITERALLY go back to the drawing board. On sheets of paper, do a life-size drawing of the diameters of both the side view of the gap dimensions, and the front view of the cage and base ring with the correct centre offset of both your existing and proposed cages. You should end up with diagrams like this... Do the same for alternative possible purchases. Then throw a ruler across your drawings and measure the gap, which of course varies in size for most devices between the widest at the bottom and narrowest at the sides. Only then will you be really informed about how your current device, and possible puchases will differently fit. Without drawing them, it is possible to buy a device with different dimensions which might appear to give you more or less room, but will counter intuitively actually do the opposite. i.e. a bigger base ring will make the gap bigger, but if the [often unquantified] cage ring is also bigger, the gap might actually be smaller.
Your balls would normally hang side by side, each not central to the largest part of the gap in the device which is bottom centre. When standing, the weight of the cage will also tend to press down and so make the balls separate towards the narrower sides of the rings/gap. If you twist and turn your body (often at night when you're on your side and nothing is lying centrally) one ball may migrate to the widest centre part of the gap, and pop through. The best fitting device would be one where the gap is exactly the same size all around the ring. That's not possible with two circular rings, unless they're co-centred, for most devices they're not, the rings are normally aligned at the top edge. An oval ring makes a better approximation of an all round even gap. If it's orientated with the long axis side to side, it then compensates for the otherwise wider gap at the bottom, but the problem with that is the shape that sits better around the base of the penis is an oval orientated with the long axis going front to back! An ergonomic ring is a better fit all round (literally), but a practical problem there is that many sellers don't quote what the actual gap size is, and it's difficult to calculate because the ergonomic ring isn't circular.
An ergonomic base ring, while comfortable, has caused issues for me as it increases the ring gap (as per your fantastic drawing @bondinchas). That’s assuming that the ergonomic shape slopes away from the cage section at the base.
If you have a "standard" design like on your drawing (no ergonomic or oval base ring, all straight lines and right angles when looking from the side), then the formula to calculate the diagonal ring gap at the bottom is: g = ((b-c)^2+h^2)^(1/2) where: g = diagonal gap h = horizontal gap (ring separation) b = base ring inner diameter c = cage inner diameter