Boners in a cage

If you do not want to suppress the erection, but want to achieve that the erection takes place "in" the cage, you need a larger cage!

For example, if you take such a cage, the erection presses back into the body and if your penis is "long", the cage, the testicle and thus the entire system is pressed forward.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61M7PBkpbxL._AC_SX466_.jpg

If you take such a cage instead, and the penis has limp place there, it will press stiffly into the cage and thereby, because of the spikes, cause pain.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51sK7XmfVIL._AC_.jpg

If you take a larger cage, the penis can unfold, but you can't get to it easily.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81+8lEdLx4L._AC_SX425_.jpg

So in your case I would again adjust the ring size (A) and choose a large cage. So you can get a "boner" but that remains trapped in the cage.

Because I'm assuming that's how it looks to you right now when you get a boner.

https://cdn012.bdsmlr.com/uploads/photos/2021/08/89565/bdsmlr-89565-kHFzakJksZ.jpg

 

Personally had same issue. Because the penis is growing, it pushes cage forward (and pulls rings against the scrotum).
Personally, I went with a larger ring to prevent blocks and for comfort. To stop the cage pulling forward, I used 2 belts threaded through the ring. 1 belt around each thigh. This kept the cage in place, tight against my body, stopping the 'push forward' effect.
It also made the whole device SOO much more secure and restrictive, so a further possibility (that should be built into these devices) is to lock the belt or similar method.

 

yeah nothing is going to stop your penis from trying to do what it naturally does... Sorry...

 

There are many ways..variation on theme.
But I simply bought 2 cheap, soft feeling thin belts (think it was in primark, but whatever lol).
The 'soft' end thread through the ring, around back of leg and round to the buckle on front of thigh. Easiest before cage part goes on.
Then just buckle the belt and repeat on other side.

A padlock through belt hole onto buckle would enforce it in place via keyholder...I never figured the 'cut off padlock' issue, but if u did it would be obvious and lots of trouble.

 

Well, it's like this:

Being put into chastity by a keyholder is difficult at times, and one of the difficulties is getting erections as a result of being quite turned on by being in chastity.

I get erect in mine, and yes every now and then it's painful. But I have always wanted to be a chastized little sissy, and sometimes my commitment to submit to it, hurts, or pinches, or makes me wish I didn't have it on. Sometimes I am turned on with no way to deal with that.

That decision is no longer mine. It is my Goddesses. I come out when or if She says so, and I learn to live with the choice to introduce it to Her, teach Her how it works, and let Her take control.

I am not sure if you have a kh, so if that's not the case, then that decision still resides with you.

I would forewarn you about your device. A long time ago I had one and my erection cracked the plastic tube. The pinch from that crack, was so quick, intense, and painful I just about couldn't move to get unlocked. I froze.

Go metal or go home. . It's even more secure, hygenic, and safer.

 

I do love metal ones for those very reasons. Have several, but the proper squashed tight ones I prefer give horrible pinching when I walk lol. Did get a metal HT, but it's very big for my tastes. Deffo need to look around more and find right one...but these plastic ones are cheap, so good to get and try out sizes etc before spending on 'the one'.
And yes, I'm alone, so I'm free to let out if anything goes too wrong lol

 

You are welcome to do so and don't despair, it takes time to find the right combination of ring diameter, types, cage length and material.

There are many websites that have tips and tricks for this.

Have a look at this one: https://www.houseofdenial.com/pages/how-to-measure-your-chastity-cage-and-ring-size

And then measure correctly. Do this a few times and on different days. The average value should then fit.

 

I'll drop you two into the conversation for a moment, even though it's not usually my style. We have various metal cages, alone the spike cages there are often only "good" as metal cages. The problem with metal is that most china models have different qualities in production. With a plastic cage, you can still do it yourself. You don't need a Dremel or other tools, a simple toenail polisher is enough to correct overhanging seams and so on.

With metal cages, refinishing always equals a visit to the hopefully well-equipped home workshop. You need equipment for heating, various grinders and possibly also a welder. Alternatively, a relatively expensive cage in individual production must be purchased directly.

Plastics can, but do not have to, be built as hard and resilient as metal. In some cases even harder. Therefore, a well manufactured plastic cage can be just as safe as a metal cage but many times lighter.

However, the basic statement that the tube does not break easily is correct in a good 60-70% of cases. With the newer Chinese models, the safety is almost 100% because they have now learned to use the right combination of materials.

However, dimensional accuracy and production quality varies greatly, unfortunately the Chinese are not Germans *wink*.

 

I'm a grower. With a longer cage which allows cock expansion, I ran into ring pull out and balls dragged through the gap problem.

With a smaller cage, erection creates pressure in the tube for sure but expansion is more limited and does not pull the ring out as much. However, the tube entry presses more on to the scrotum to reduce gap and can create swelling of the testicule (s).

So there's no perfect solution.

I addressed the ring issue first. I think I have the right diameter and angle (CK guy). Not so sure about the cage (tube).

But I am pretty sure that it's better not to allow the cock to run free into the cage and learn to tolerate some pressure when aroused, voluntarily or not.