Has anyone shortened/cut the tube of a CB-6000? I want to make mine about an inch, like the length of a 6000s. Any ideas or recommendations? Thanks!
very carefully with a fresh blade designed to cut acrylic. buying the "s" cage would be easier though. I wish they made an "m" though
i mentioned my only thought earlier. Just be advised that model cement does cause heat as it works so the tube won't be quite crystal clear around the seam. I can post a pic of what I mean if necessary.
if you fancy doing a swap i have a new cb6000s tube i just ordered to replace my cb6000 that broke but it is too small for me to get on so i need the standard tube again, interested? if so where are you it doesn,t say on your profile. let me know if you fancy swapping:anim_12:
I have done this with a CB3K. I used an Xacto saw blade. A jeweler's saw would do as well - they are available at hobby/craft stores. A Dremel tool also works, and is a bit quicker. To re-assemble the pieces, I used 2-part epoxy putty. Form it into a ring to sandwich between the 2 pieces, press them together, and smooth the seam with a wet finger. After it hardens, apply a 2nd layer, making it as smooth as possible. If you look up my profile, I have several pictures in my albums that show the result. It wasn't hard if you do any kind of craft work.
I use PVC cement. The important thing is to sand the cut edges (put the sandpaper on a flat surface and move the pieces on it) so they fit tight before gluing - then clamp the pieces together until the glue is dry (about 6 hours for the cement I used). Then sand the join and edges with increasing smooth sandpaper. If you can close you eyes and run your fingertip over the surface without feeling the joint, you are smooth enough. I go from 400 grit, 200, then to 2/0 and 4/0 then follow with a car polish. js
The advantage of the epoxy putty is that the 2 pieces do not have to be completely smooth and flat where they meet. Of course, the seam is more visible, but it would save a whole lot of sanding and polishing.