Screw stuck in place

Not at all, I use teflon tape and the screw stays tight until my wife wants it off. Have never had a problem undoing it in 3 years, I have a Jailbird with the same security screw.

 

I have not had an issue with my Contender. I do alternate between the screw and padlock however.

 

Obviously you need to use some care, perhaps applying it with a Q-tip but I would think a penetrating lubricant would be a better choice than mineral oil. I can't tell from their picture so I'm not sure if Mature Metal uses a proprietary security screw or a common one (like hex). I would suggest contacting them directly for advice.

 

I had some problems early on with not getting the key seated properly in the screw slot and messing up both the key and the screw when I tried to unscrew, but at the time I was using blue loctite to secure it which is not recommended.

After that I used the padlock for quite a while, but the problem there is that over time the hasp will loosen slightly, which allows the cage to rotate on the post.

Now I use teflon plumbers tape on the threads and I don’t have any problems with it staying tight while wearing or with removal.

Check the threads on your base ring to make sure you haven’t cross threaded the screw. If you have, MM could probably rethread it for you. They can also replace the screw and key if necessary, if you send them your old ones first.

Also, at first I had removed the key ring from the hole in the key so that I could put it into a secure holder, but I think having the ring there to provide a little leverage is very helpful in getting enough torque to get the screw loosened initially. You definitely shouldn’t need pliers for that.

Good luck! I hope you can get it to work satisfactorily, because the screw really works much better in the long run, in my experience.

 

Does Teflon tape reduce the likelihood that the screw comes *loose* on its own, or does it make that more likely? That's the only problem I've had with my security screw so far.

 

My experience has been that it keeps it very tightly screwed down with no loosening problem whatsoever, but also unscrews smoothly and easily so the best of both worlds. I did have some loosening issues at first until I gave the threads a thorough cleaning with rubbing alcohol and a qtip, both the screw and the inner threads of the post. And when putting it on next time, make sure any old remnants of plumbers tape are out of there.

 

These screws are something, yes.
It happened to me twice. One time she handed me the 'key' and told me to unlock myself for sex. And the thing just didn't move. After some time she just went to bed. I kept trying to unscrew that damn thing. But nothing. The key was just jumping out ot the screw. I did try pliers and some other things without success. Probably 20 minutes later i tried the key again and it unscrewed like it was nothing.

 

I haven't had trouble with the screw getting stuck. Sometimes I have a little trouble getting the key lined up properly in the screw head, and sometimes I had to push the key pretty hard into the screw to keep it from slipping out, but no time when I couldn't get the screw to budge.

What I have trouble with is getting everything lined up properly to get the damn screw started in the first place.

 

you have to make sure that the cage does not have tension on the base ring and the cage itself. this will create a pinch point, increasing the force required to unscrew it...
never had a issue with my Lori security screw.... had it on for a few weeks without touching it. showering daily. so it got wet a lot

 

What I did for that very problem is get a long (over 1 inch) 8-32 screw from the hardware store, and fine-file (or sand) down the first turn or two of the thread to create a short taper. Then hand-screw that tapered screw from the opposite side (opposite to the side were you'd place the MM lock screw) to find the proper alignment. Once it bites, screw it in just enough to hold the proper position, but not too far so there are at least a couple of turns available at the end for the actual MM lock screw to bite in. Once the MM lock screw is in a bit you can just unscrew your starter screw as you finish screwing in the MM lock screw.

You don't want to file a taper on the MM lock screw itself, because the tip of that screw being full diameter helps to prevent any looseness of the cage around the lock post.

One last tip: for that starter screw, pick a round-head, not a flat-head one. The former is much easier to hand-screw than the latter.

 

I didn't know a round head screw was available. That would be helpful. I also had a difficult time getting the screw lined up to get started. It's so small I couldn't grip it. Then when I wanted to unscrew it, the little key kept slipping out of where it fits into the head of the screw. I wish there were more depth in the screw to get a more secure bite. Anyway, I kind of freaked out. Then i wanted to go with the padlock but I couldn't get the claw part of the padlock through the hole and I had to send it back.
They drilled it out a little I guess and it fits together now. I feel much safer going with the padlock.
Still though, I love the jailbird. It's really comfortable and it looks great.
I would like the fit of the clasp to loosen on the padlock so its easier on and off. As was said it fits really closely to prevent the parts moving together.
If my fiance/kh let's me out, I want it to be easy to do. Same for when she wants to put me back in.

 

The padlock will loosen over time which is a mixed blessing because when it does the cage will be able to rotate on the post a bit.

The screw is a standard 8-32 thread, so if you’re not in a country subject to the tyranny of the metric system, you could get a flat head or philips head screw at the hardware store. You might have to cut it down to the right length.

 

Sorry, accidentally hit Post …

Anyway, you could use that screw until you feel more comfortable with how it goes on and off.

The security screw bit does have a shallow bite, so part of getting used to it is figuring out how to get the screw seated firmly without having to wrench on it. I’ve found that Teflon plumbers tape is ideal. Other people swear by Loctite (BLUE ONLY!!) but I think it’s too easy to put too much on, and that exacerbated the problem for me.

With a couple of turns of tape on the screw, I can tighten it down so that it has yet to loosen before it has to come off for some other reason (usually a few weeks). Give the threads an occasional cleaning when it’s off, and it’s both effective and easy to deal with.

The padlock works great too, but don’t give up on the security screw if using it appeals to you.

 

Thanks I will look into it

 

"What I have trouble with is getting everything lined up properly to get the damn screw started in the first place."

Me too.
It was taking me 10-15 minutes sometimes to get that little rascal on there. It's so tiny, and the cage and base ring have to be just right.
Another reason I just gave up and went to the padlock.

 

I’ve not had this issue, but I recently went back to the padlock instead of the security screw (after about two years of the security screw) because the screw is fiddly to lock with. One thing that may have happened to you is that torsion between the base ring and the cage put pressure on the screw so it would not turn. You sometimes have to manipulate the two pieces so the screw turns easily.

 

Follow up for on my switching from the screw to the padlock-
The fit for the clasp(?) of the padlock has loosened enough so that the lock is much easier on and off.
The device does now have a little wiggle in the foot of the two pieces together, but it's very minor.

 

When I use the security screw, I use a little gizmo called a “pick-up tool” or “gem tweezer” that has four little prongs that grip the head of the screw so I can get it started.

 

i've been using purple locktite for while now. I have not been cleaning the screw when I am unlocked, and I had noticed that the screw was getting harder and harder to unscrew. Well, last week when I tried to unlock the device (so I could avoid a metal detector at an event at my son's college Parents' Weekend), I couldn't get it to turn at all with the key. Yikes! (At least I did not set off the alarm.)

Today I was able to get the screw out using pliers, but for a while there I was worried that I was going to have to use a dremel myself or go to the hospital room to get the device off. Neither one of which appealed to me, to say the least.

My wife was fairly amused, but she gave me a spanking for this. That was a first for her..

Thanks to Mistress MM and to William for their support and guidance when I reached out to them.

 

No more locktite for me.

 

I have not had any problems with the MM security screws at all, and I don’t use anything on the threads. I also do not use a padlock ever, so there is no risk of thread damage from that. I do have mine countersunk, which means there is essentially no strain on the screw at all, and I have worn mine for weeks without the screw coming loose at all.

I suppose it’s Avery good thing I’ve had no issues with the screw. With it being countersunk pliers and such won’t work. I’d probably need a screw remover from Home Depot and THAT would be a challenge with such a small stainless steel screw so close to sensitive areas and an awkward reach solo. My wife would probably be laughing too hard to help! LOL

FYI, MM uses a standard 8-32 thread, so you could replace it with any stainless screw of that size, including some of the tamper resistant styles you can find on the net.

 

Any drawback to a little dab of support glue or lock tite?

 

Don't!