Safe materials for customizing chastity devices

I have used silver braze to build and modify metal devices. Note silver braze or just silver solder. The braze metals which do not contain silver require a higher temperature. You really need a torch supplied with oxygen to reach the required temperature to use those. I think the silver brazing alloys are OK but I do try to minimise skin contact with the joints. One thing that is definitely not safe is to heat (e.g. for brazing) metal that is chromium plated. You end up creating hexavalent chromium, which produces contact dermatitis. I speak from experience on that one. It is also carcinogenic, so don’t try to remove the oxide be filing, polishing etc. Note that some of the cheap devices turn out to be plated steel even though sold as stainless. Stainless steel contains chromium so I suppose there might be some risk from brazing it, but it only needs to be dull red for brazing. I don’t know that the oxide coating that results from brazing stainless is dangerous, but I do try to remove it carefully. If you are going to weld stainless it might be worth doing a bit of research first.

I have also used 3D printing with PLA. I think that's OK.

 

Look around at the prosthesis manufacturers, they often use PMAA. Plastics are very common in body prostheses like artificial legs and hands and of course silicones of all kinds. However, the hardware store items are not suitable for this.

These materials can be food safe, which does not mean that you can wear them 24/7 on or in your body.

For urethra tubes, for example, we simply use the tubes from the aquarium construction, because these materials also no longer secrete toxins and also well withstand acids.

Bonding is a subject in itself. There are adhesives that emit really nasty substances when they set. There, if at all, only fabric adhesives come into question. That is, adhesives that have been developed for the textile industry. But these also need a minimum of 2 - 4 days to become completely solid and then no longer give off anything.

When it comes to metal, you don't have to think long, only 100% stainless steels come into question. This means that you either take a V4A, which is more resistant to chlorine and salt, or a V2A, which is the "normal" stainless steel. In both cases, the proportion of molybdenum is different.

When processing you may need to weld, these filler wires and fillers, may contain components that are not intended for 24/7 body contact. So if you don't have a fusible link to anneal your steel and join mild steel to mild steel, you'll need to read up on the material there as well.

Of course, you can also choose the method, which you first "finish" everything, not taking into account any materials, and in the end, the entire workpiece in an electroplating bath coated with real gold or real silver. This works for all the metal parts. This creates a barrier between potential irritants and the body.

Silver leaf or gold leaf plating works just as well, but you can never fill all the cracks and gaps as perfectly in this process as you can in electroplating.

So a lot to learn or do better said. The cost, by the way, is not particularly high. Electroplating equipment (good) you can get for under 300 dollars on amazon, as well as the appropriate mixtures for gold and silver.

Plastics is another issue and often requires you to contact companies to make molded parts, the 3D printers provide poor filament for that.

Gluing is unnecessary if you weld and electroplate. If you do glue, you must test whether the glue resists galvanization.

 

I have used that kind of material for chastity cage customization in the past (specifically, the "ThermoMorph" brand). For instance, I made a cap for MCN Contender to screw a threaded TetherSpout on, as well as a frenum shield for my MM Jailbird. I have never has any adverse skin reaction from these experiments, and I've sometimes worn such items for stretches of 2 weeks. A couple of caveats though:

• The material appears to be porous. In particular, the frenum shield i mentioned has tarnished a bit. Even though it does not give off any odor once cleaned, it is no longer as white as it was when new.
• Molding is easy, but not as precise as you would wish. The material is a bit sticky right after heating. As it cools off, it is easier to manipulate, but by then you only have about 30 seconds before it becomes difficult to form.
• Once cold, the material can be cut, but it can be hard to do so precisely, because it is still flexible enough to require very sharp tools to make clean cuts.