Modifications to my CB-3000

I have owned my CB3K for several years, and have made some modifications to it
that may be of interest to the Chastity Mansion community. As a picture is worth a
thousand words, I have uploaded several photos to my Album that will illustrate this text.

The Ring:

I have never been a fan of squeezing my balls through a closed ring. I had
problems with the hinged rings that come with the CB3K: irritation was one of
them, and breakage was another. I didn't like having to use a sleeve over
the hinge, and when the plastic cracked at the hinge and fell apart, I decided
to come up with something better. I liked the "open at the top" design of the
CB6K, but it seemed to have too many small parts. My keyholder is not as
interested in chastity play as I am, so I wanted to keep the system simple, so
as not to scare her off. Also, I wanted to keep a round locking pin, and the
6K pin is oval. With a round pin, I could substitute a metal pin for added
security (see below). So, I decided to modify my 3K, rather than buy a 6K.

Using my trusty Dremel tool, I cut out the center portion of a solid ring, just
inside the holes for the two lateral pins. I also flattened an area around
these holes to allow better seating of the new central piece. To make the
central piece, I bought a sheet of 1/8 inch thick plastic sheeting at the
building supply store (Lowe's), and cut two pieces to span the gap between the
pins. The forward piece has a narrow hole for the locking pin, just large
enough for the shaft. Holes for the two white alignment pins go all the way
through. The rear piece has a larger hole for the locking pin, so the head of
the pin can sit flush with the rear surface. There is an indent for the
alignment pins, but the hole does not go all the way through. Since the
alignment pins will now be holding the cuff ring closed, the ends of the
alignment pins have to be covered, so they cannot be pulled out. The
alignment pins are left long enough to go all the way through the ring and into
the back piece.

The cut out center portion of the ring is glued to the sheet plastic pieces
using a dab of epoxy putty. The face of the ring was sanded flat with the
Dremel to improve adhesion. Also, the two plastic pieces are glued together
using super glue. Super glue and epoxy putty make a very strong bond. Once
glued together, final sanding and smoothing is done.

The Locking Pin:

I wanted a metal locking pin, but they are no longer available online for the
CB2/3K. The local Lowe's building supply store has 1/4 inch metal pins that
are the correct diameter. I used my Dremel to enlarge the appropriate hole and
cut off the excess length.

Spacers between cuff ring and cage:

I find the small spacers supplied with the CB3K too small and easy to lose. So,
I cut several pieces from the plastic sheet, drilled the necessary holes, then super-glued
them together to form one solid spacer that can stay attached to the cage by
sitting on the alignment pins. Once the whole apparatus is assembled, there
are a few "pinch points" that have to be sanded smooth.

Preventing pull-out:

My penis changes size a LOT from completely flaccid to erect. When flaccid,
the head is entirely within the shaft part of the cage. In that state, it is
easy to pull the cage away from the body and pull the penis out. Anything to
make the cage too tight to prevent pull out would be too tight for long term
wear. Also, my wife (keyholder) would be put off by anything spikey, like the
"Points of Intrigue." The only way to prevent pull out is to keep the tip
anchored in the cage. I tried using a rubber 'O' ring behind the glans, but it
caused irritation after a few days. There is just no way around it: a piercing
is the only solution. After some research, I got a PA piercing. I'm not
interested in having a large ring in the piercing, so I use a curved barbell, 8
gauge. I use a 6mm, "half-ball" on the end on the underside of the shaft, and
a 5mm ball with hoop on the end at the tip. A 14 gauge, 1/4 inch segment ring
goes in the hoop. These parts are available from
"http://www.painfulpleasures.com"

Because of the range of travel of the end of my penis while in the cage, a
fixed point of attachment for the PA piercing, as with a Lori's tube, would
probably not work well. The attachment point needs to be able to move back and
forth, and for that, a small chain is needed. I tried a small dog collar
chain, large enough for the shackle of the lock to fit through a link, but I
wanted something smaller. I found what I needed on Amazon.com. A "Medic
Alert" necklace comes with a fine, strong, stainless steel chain. Cut the
chain to length, and use an 18 gauge ring on each end: one fits the lock
shackle, the other loops through the ring on the PA barbell. I wanted to
solder the rings closed, but it turns out that soldering stainless steel is
difficult. The same thing that makes it "stainless" also makes it not want to
be soldered. Fortunately, there is a product called "J-B Weld", a two-part
epoxy for metals that dries as strong as steel. A dab of that on each seam
makes the rings secure. The ring that goes on the PA barbell end is folded over
so it wraps around the 14 gauge ring and sits a little nicer.

So, that is my system. It is comfortable, secure, and easy to put on or take
off. It does not have any small parts that are easy to lose. I find it much better than the original 3K.

I hope this information is useful to others using a CB3K. As I mentioned at the
beginning, photos are available in my album section, for anyone interested.