Making Your Own Device

Discussion in 'Chastity device discussions and reviews' started by titaniumjones, Dec 16, 2018.

  1. titaniumjones
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    titaniumjones Crouching Robot, Hidden Dragon

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    I purchased a Steel Worxx Looker 2 a few years ago.
    When I got a piercing I sent it back for modifications. I was never happy with the finished result. I'd made an error with the measurements and it didn't fit quite right after that.
    I then bought a lock to replace the integrated security screw that had been installed. That didn't work right either as it would occasionally pinch and hurt like a bastard.
    My company bought a TIG welder for doing SS welding and, being an Engineer, I can weld. But I'm having difficulty welding such thin and delicate stainless steel.

    I would love to talk with other kinksters about tips and tricks for welding thin bar and sheet stainless. Settings clamping methodologies and backings etc.

    I have all the gear and no idea.
     
  2. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    A fabrication company I used to have some dealings with welded some 1mm wall tubing that was 6mm OD and used what they called micro TIG, much more controllable for small weld beads. I can not offer more than this.
     
  3. titaniumjones
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    titaniumjones Crouching Robot, Hidden Dragon

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    Hmmm - I'll keep playing.
     
  4. art4bux
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    art4bux Active member

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    if you have an inverter machine, try turning the current down as low as you can and still strike an arc. Most people who MicroTIG do it at less than 20 amps. you may also need to turn the Ar flow rate down to 10-15 cfh.
    You might also want to get a piece of the same alloy and size to practice on, and REALLY fine rod and tungsten (.020" W and .020-040" rod). One other thing that usually works for me is to work in a metal, open-topped box. Ar is heavier than air, so it sits on the bottom of the box and you end up with less contamination.
    Sorry, i don't speak metric.

    HTH.
    Stu
     
  5. titaniumjones
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    titaniumjones Crouching Robot, Hidden Dragon

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    Don't worry about it. Being English, we've been converting to metric for 45 years. I'm of the right age to be ambidextrous.
    Metric from schooling and Imperial from my father.
     
  6. titaniumjones
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    titaniumjones Crouching Robot, Hidden Dragon

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    #6 titaniumjones, Dec 20, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2018
    P.S. Thanks for your tips. I'll experiment.
    My machine is a fairly advanced inverter model. Both AC and DC with a lot of fancy features.
    Thus far 18 - 20 amps is barely enough to melt the bars. But I like the AR tips and the feed filler rod tips. I did think my filler rod maybe too thick. The ones I have are 1.2mm - 0.05". I know I can get 0.7mm - 0.03" as well. With the long rod hanging over my shoulder, it tends to bounce the tip.

    For another project I have successfully welded lead sheet at 14amps, stitching puddles together.
    Since then I have found that I can actually set the machine up to do pulsing (Fast or slow). Thus I could have done the lead with 14 amp pulse and a 7amp background current.
     
  7. art4bux
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    art4bux Active member

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    Another thing that just occurred to me, about the springing/bouncing of the filler, I know that industrial supp!y houses here sell spools of wire of any imaginable alloy. That small, it's going to be pretty flexible - put it on the bench and pull it off like solder..

    just a thought

    S.
     
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