Hi, I need some input (oops) lets say help. Uncut - Inverting bars - any other thoughts. Base Ring - Ordered the sizing rings from mm. Think we need the smallest ring that does not cause any pain at any time, that I can still insert the tip of my index finger snugly in as suggested. Any thoughts on why not to go oval? Length of cage - Shortest measurement over a longer period of time. Many recommendations are to take your shortest length and then subtract 1/2 inch to create a snugger fit. Part of the reason is to allow for some arousal created with me fondling it to get it measured. Tried thumping it a good one to make it get down---guess you can guess how counterproductive that was. Diameter - This is where I am concerned. We plan to use the smaller sizing rings from mm to figure this out. The problem lies in the fact we do not know how tightly it should slide on. Should it slip over everything easily, snug, or should I get my hammer out? lol Some articles suggest getting the tighter fit and then decreasing it 1/4 inch. They say this will create a snug fit which will be more comfortable. (again adjusting also for the fact that I am examining him.) Want to get this one correct since I understand this cannot be adjusted. Gap - plan to start in the middle. How can we tell if the size is correct when we receive the cage. Any suggestions on the good, bad, and (hopefully not) ugly of it all. Don't really know what to look for. Security screw - can the threads wear out if there is too much on and off action? Very EXCITED about the whole thing and hope to get the "whole thing" correct. Thank you for any help you can give us. Any of these ideas need a change??? Boo - also ,newby
You should contact Mature Metal directly; they will always be the best source of information regarding their own products.
My KH keeps me in Watchful Mistress. You made smartest first step by ordering sizing rings. Base Ring: I was between 2 sizes. I ordered a round double ring in the larger and single oval in the smaller. I wear the double.most if the time. Cage Diameter: I chose diameter that would not slide down shaft when I was flacid. Cage Length: I took 1/4" on measurement, probably should have taken off 1/2". Gap: 1/4" as the boys hang loose and low. This worked for me but anatomy being what it is YMMV. MM customer is great. Good luck.
Hi Insuredtongue, Thanks for the response. Think we have the size figured out from the rings, going to try an oval. The rings are sooooo helpful, anyone considering should order them as a first step. We are working on the diameter, using the smaller sized rings to fit as you said. Much easier than a tape measure. By the time I got a measuring tape around it I think my efforts would be in vain. Ha Really appreciate the comment on the length. MM suggest to to take the smallest measurement and decrease it by 1/4 inch. We have read so many comments like yours that a 1/2 inch decrease would have been better. Your comment just reinforces that. Agree that mm service is just great. We are new at this and I was a little uncomfortable about my questions. William did a great job of making me feel fine with the things I wanted to ask, kind of like talking to your DR. about a concern. He has a great personality and a gift for the job they do. Again, thanks for the reply, it helps to know what others did. Boo
For length, I also recommend taking 1/2 inch off of your smallest flaccid measurement, because the base ring and gap (in my case 3/8 inch) combined add roughly 1/2 inch to the overall length. As such, if you want the overall length to be the same as your smallest flaccid length then ordering a cage length 1/2 inch less than your smallest flaccid size should give you what you need. Note also that if you are like me and need to go extra small you can ask for lengths and internal diameters which are smaller than the options listed on their ordering page.
I have three MM devices.. two sizes of Jail Bird and a Queen's Keep. I've used oval and round rings, single and double. It is just a matter of personal preference and your anatomy. I prefer round rings because I sit at work all day and prefer a little more space top to bottom. I wouldn't worry too much about cage diameter. You shouldn't have to squeeze in. Length and base ring size are much more important. I first tried a Holy Trainer, and the tube was just too narrow so I made sure the cage diameter was adequate. I have since gone to slightly shorter length and smaller base ring (hence the second JB), but never felt a need for a narrower cage. MM is great about giving advice and their instructions are very good.
I took off a 1/2" and went with their smallest cage size of 1 1/4". The reason is that my gap is 1/2". As for the security screw, it really is not very secure. I have been using it for 3 years now and the threads do not wear down. The problem is that if you wear it for any length of time, the screw will come loose and you can easily remove it with your fingers. You can get around this by using the Blue (never red) Loktite or as I do, use the Teflon tape that is used to make plastic water pipes waterproof. I just wrap it around the threads once and it makes for a tight fit that does not loosen the screw. I recommend the padlock though. it is easy on/off and you do not have to worry about cross threading the screw in which case you are screwed. My only problem with the padlock is that my penis is very small and sometimes retreats into my body. The padlock is heavy enough to pull the cage down so that my penis can escape sometimes or at best, pulls my penis down so it makes a mess when I pee, shooting in-between the toilet seat and bowl. So for this reason I use the screw but if your penis is bigger, the padlock is a better and simpler choice. You can ask MM to counter sink the screw head because that is the problem When you have a flat headed screw going into a round object there is very little surface to surface contact. I know this from working with gun barrels where Blue Loktite is used a lot to keep it in place. Blue Loktite is basically a liquid plastic that you put on the bottom few threads so when you screw the screw in, it coats the threads and then cures into a hard plastic that keeps the screw from moving. It takes more force to break the seal but will prevent the screw from moving due to motion. I also worry about not being able to get the screw out, a problem I have had with many years of working with screws that get get stuck or cross threaded. I have had to drill them out to remove them which is not very practical for a cock cage. The padlock MM provides is very good quality and should last you a lifetime. Not really worth the money for the security screw since it is not secure at all without extra effort. Plus it takes long to screw it in and out. Not good if you are going to be taking the cage on and off a few times a week. I tend to wear mine for a minimum of a week and as long as two weeks before removing it for sex. Sometimes it takes me 15 minutes to line up the holes of the ring and cage and get is screwed in. Other times I luck out and just get it right. The other problem is that the key is not a key but a small, very small rounded tool with a special end that fits the screw head. It gets very slippery and not easy to keep on screwing in or out without constantly adjusting your grip. Really not worth the money or inconvenience and if I did not have such a small penis, I would never had got mine.
I have the same issue Vinny mentioned about the weight pulling down and my penis would get free at its smallest size. For now I fixed that by using very thin elastic string/cord as a belt that loops around the post that holds the cage, I put the loops on before adding the cage so that the cage prevents the loops from going back over the post. As a longer-term fix I've ordered a smaller JB (less than 1 inch length) and gone down to a 1/4 inch gap, I also ordered a slightly smaller base ring, the combination of which should be somewhat lighter and will hopefully keep things in place without the extra belt.
I use the security screw because it is less bulky than the lock. I agree it is a little fiddly to get on. I ended up buying a little tool for handling small screws that has 4 little wire prongs to hold the screw to start it. I have not had an issue with the screw loosening. MM will drill an offset so the screw sits flush with the hole if you want.