Further modifications to CB3K

Discussion in 'CB Range' started by Mark121, Feb 18, 2009.

  1. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    My efforts to perfect the CB3K continue, even when I should be doing other things!

    See my album for the latest changes to my CB3K. The two issues I am working on are: 1) extreme size change from flaccid to semi-erect (turtlenecking), and 2) the need to prevent "pull-out".

    WRT #1, I bought to black CB3K cage only, and used a jeweler's saw to cut just in front of the base and a second cut just behind the head, cutting out the center tube portion. I then used epoxy putty to re-attach the two pieces. The size and shape of the holes are not exactly the same, so putty is necessary to fill the gaps. I applied the putty in 2 stages: the first just to set the alignment and fill any gaps. After the putty hardened, I ground down the excess, then applied a second layer, this time taking care to make smooth surfaces. Once the second application hardened, I smoothed it down, and used black enamel paint from the hobby store to paint the outside. I did not paint the inside, as I wasn't sure if there would be any bad effect from having a painted surface rubbing against my penis. Not that having an epoxy puttied surface would be any better?

    I was worried that the cage would now be too short, but it is not. In fact, my penis can still pull back from the tip, and it is not too uncomfortable to get a full erection at night with the device on, though it does pull a bit more.

    For holding the tip of the penis in place, I have used a small chain in the past, but I would prefer a more rigid fixation. I got a set of chome covered wire hangars from WalMart to use for the next part. These hangars are the same size as my 8 ga PA piercing. I wanted to shape the wire so that it would hold my PA piercing in the tube, and be held in the spacer when the whole thing was locked together, so there is no need for a second lock at the tip of the tube. It turns out that such a complex set of bends is too hard to do with a single piece of wire, so I had to break it up into three pieces.

    The first piece is in the spacer itself. I cut a groove to receive the wire, then made a 90 degree bend and cut off the excess length. The second piece goes around the side of the entrance to the tube. This just required finding the necessary size of rigid tube in my house, and bending the hangar around it. It turned out that the handle of our elliptical trainer was just right. The most challenging piece was the part that goes in the tube itself. It curves into the tube, then makes a bend upward at where my PA hole is, then curves gently toward the tip of the tube. I cut the length so that it reaches the tip of the tube, but does not stick out beyond the end.

    The pieces are glued to each other using "JB Weld". It is important to roughen the surfaces where the glue is to be applied, so it can make a nice, strong bond. I taped each piece in place on the CB3K, then applied the weld, being careful not to get any on the CB itself. Once it hardens, you can take it off the CB and apply a second layer to the spots you couldn't get to before.

    The final problem was rough spots on the PA portion. The wire is fairly hard to bend, and in the process of adjusting the shape, I made some gouges in the smooth surface from the pliers I was using. I tried to polish these out, but it polished off the coating of the coat hanger, resulting in the copper color you can see in the pictures. I don't know what the metal is, but I'm pretty sure I don't want it in contact with my urethra for long periods. So, I used clear nail polish to cover the exposed metal, applying several coats, and buffing the final coat with my Dremel tool.

    So far, I have worn the device for less than a day, but so far things seem OK. I do get some pain at the tip of my penis as it tries to change size, and slides up and down on the PA part. A little dab of vaseline helps with that.

    If anyone has any suggestions as to how to cover the exposed metal, I would like to hear them. The clear nail polish did turn a little cloudy after wearing it overnight, but cleared again once it dried out. Also, you have to be careful not to get pinched putting it on, as it is easy to get some skin between the wire and plastic as you are putting it together. Overall, I am happy with the result so far. Again, see my album for the photos.
     
  2. Mistress Watchful
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    Mistress Watchful Dont believe the hype ;oP

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    Ingenious!

    In some respects its a shame everyone has to delve into these modifications, but on the other hand... it's good to have a hobby! :happy0160:
     
  3. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    Thank you. I was rather thinking of "diabolical", but I appreciate the compliment.
     
  4. newsub4a
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    newsub4a Senior Member

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    Interesting and very creative!

    A few thoughts.... using Vaseline in the urethra could be dangerous because of infections. Petroleum based products tend to trap bacteria and you do not want to get a urinary track infection! Try using anti-bacteria cream instead or something like surgical lube. One thing that I would be worried about with the anti-bacterial cream is that the bacteria might become resistant to the cream, which could lead to an infection that would not go away!

    I tried modifying my curve by shortening it and filling in some of the holes and now I can't wear it because I get rashes from what I assume is the epoxy. Maybe it is just me and hopefully it won't effect you. For me the rashes start appearing after 24 hours of wear or so.

    I am not sure that painting the inside would be a good idea, because I would be afraid of the paint flaking off, especially model paint!
     
  5. eceem
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    eceem Member

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    if you are using tamiya or humbrol model paint they are completely non toxic and safe to use .. hell i even accidently drank some as a kid .. didnt even make me throw up just didnt taste very nice :) ... ive spent the last 30 years heavly exposed to modeling paint (i plastic model as a hobby and part time income) and never had any skin rashes or problems, however your milage may vary but in general model paint has been formulated for kids, it wont flake off in sharp bits as the paint pigment is waaaaay too fine for that, it will however wear off though because of the same pigment fineness,

    heres a tip, if you want to "paint" a hard wearing non toxic barrier between expoxy filler and you skin and you dont want to use paint .. go to your local supermarket and buy a bottle of FUTURE FLOOR POLISH (also called KYRSTAL KLEAR in some countrys) this stuff is a clear acyrilic that drys as hard as a rock, has no long term effect on skin, never rubs off and will also smooth out a lot of the minor sanding imperfections in your work ... modelers swear by it. just "paint" it on with a cotton bud (Q-tip) and leave to dry overnight (only takes 10 mins to dry but i leave it overnight to really harden up) and if you have been modifing the clear cbxxxx then the Fture will replace a good percentage of the clarity (thats the main use us molders use it for we use it as a final gloss coat before appling decals and as a dip to make the "glass" bits on the model super dupper clear. oh its great for shinning up the floor ive been told too altho ive never acually tried it on that :)
     
  6. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    eceem:

    Great idea! I used to do a bit of modeling myself, but never tried floor polish. That sounds like it might work better than nail polish on the PA portion, too. I am making a second wire frame, now that the first effort seems to be workable. It is way easier to make the second one, as I have already made all the mistakes with the first one. Shaping the PA portion is still a bit tricky, but I think I can manage it with fewer rough spots on the end result. Thanks for the tip!

    newsub4a:

    I'm hoping that I can make the PA portion smooth enough that I won't need Vaseline long-term. We shall see. Thanks for the warning about reacting to the epoxy. Until I get a chance to wear this thing for more than a day or two, I won't know if this will be a problem or not.
     
  7. slave2catwoman
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    Can you post a picture of your modifications?
     
  8. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    The pictures are in my albums, which are available for anyone to view. Just click my avatar.
     
  9. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    A progress report on the "homebrew" PA fixation:

    'eceem' suggested using acrylic floor polish ('Future') to protect the epoxy putty seams in the shortened CB3K. I also tried using it on the wire frame, as well.

    The Future does not hold up well. The chrome coat hanger does not cause any problems sitting in the urethra for several days, but where it has been cut, exposing the underlying metal, causes a reaction, resulting in irritation. The Future that I applied wore off after one day. Also, I applied some Future to the outside of the CB3K, to cover some scuff marks. It looked nice, until I took a shower with the device on. The Future turns a cloudy white, which does NOT clear when it dries out.

    I picked up some clear epoxy casting resin/hardener at the craft store, and will try that where the Future would have gone. It should be inert to body fluids once it has cured.

    So far, I the longest I have worn the device is 72 hours, and my penis was showing a little bit of irritation at the meatus, but there was also some accumulation of crust at the tip, which I don't get if wearing a stainless steel barbell.

    I will try the epoxy on the places where the wire has been cut, to see if that cuts down on the irritation. I will also buy a 8 ga stainless steel circular barbell, which I can re-shape to use for the PA portion of the frame.
     
  10. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    Look at my album to see the latest prototype PA frame.

    The new design does not attach to the CB at all, and has a pin that can rotate up and down. The pin goes thru the PA, with the half-ring around the base of the penis. Then, the CB3K is applies. With the CB locked on, the PA frame cannot be removed.

    I have worn the device pictured for 2 1/2 days, with no irritation. There were a few pinches where the ring meets to entrance to the CB tube. I will be making the next one so that the open ring is more of a "U" shape, and using a small lump of JB weld instead of duct tape to keep the pin centered.
     
  11. Mark121
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    Mark121 Nobody of consequence

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    This is just an announcement to let people know that I have a new photo in my Album of a PA holding device for the CB3K that was made for me by MatureMetal. It is the frame and pin that I have been showing for some time now, re-made in stainless steel. It is way more sturdy and professional looking than the bent coat hangar! Stop by and have a look.
     
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