3D printed Iron Maiden punishment device

Discussion in '3D printing files' started by castmenow, Dec 23, 2019.

  1. Paulette the Tart
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    Paulette the Tart Male maid

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    Thanks again for the hints and tips, castmenow; it sounds like you have something akin to the Neosteel Arch or My-Steel Ergo-slim. Anyway: all hints and tips are very welcome to a newbie like me.

    I'm having my first play with PETG at the moment and having Hell with adhesion. The filament I have recommends 200°-225° but I couldn't get it to stick to my XVICO's removable magnetic plate 'till I cranked the extruder up to 245°. Thankfully the XVICO allows me to play with temperatures mid-print or start-of-print without having to re-slice in Cura every time. However, the successful adhesion appeared to also coincide with me using up the outside layer of the spool and the bag it came in didn't appear to be under vacuum so I suspect slight moisture absorption could have been the problem. Like I said: I'm very new to all this!
     
  2. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    I run my bed at 80degC for PETG and print at 225degC and get great adhesion during the print and when cool it pops off easily. My print bed is glass with a micro ceramic coating so no need to mess with tape, glue sticks or hair spray. It came with the printer.
     
  3. Paulette the Tart
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    Paulette the Tart Male maid

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    The problem does, indeed, appear to have been filament badly-stored before sale. It now adheres well to a clean bed at 70° with first layer at 240° then dropping to 225° (to minimise stringing) and the bed dropping to 50°. Adhesion is now as good as PLA but, as the bed is flexible, removal is easy. The removable magnetic flexible bed also came with the printer and I can thoroughly recommend it.
     
  4. epsi-trepsi
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    epsi-trepsi Active member

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    This looks like a very cool device. I would like to wear it with a retainer ring and 24/7. Would it be possible to remove the spikes, put a O ring in behind the glans and make air holes for ventilation?
     
  5. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    Everything is possible with 3D design and printing but I am not going to start doing such large mods to the design. I have done some custom resizing but not major changes. I have picked up some work and I am fully occupied with this.
     
  6. epsi-trepsi
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    epsi-trepsi Active member

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    I am not asking for a full rework. I have actually tried to modify the files but can’t seem to get it right. Can you help with changing the size? The internal ring should be 47 mm, spacer 10 mm, cage internal diameter 32 mm. I would be most grateful!
     
  7. Paulette the Tart
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    Paulette the Tart Male maid

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    Having had a look at the files (to see how castmenow got a smoother finish than I did) I can see how changing the diameter is a major task!
     
  8. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    It will be a while before I can do anything, I am working flat out on a contract I haved picked up at the moment, I have gone from semi retired with plenty of time on my hands to being fully occupied again.
     
  9. madams-sissysub
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    looks like I got in my request just in time! Hope your not working to hard!
     
  10. nordicboy
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    nordicboy New member

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    Has anyone tried having Shapeways print it?
     
  11. eduard
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    eduard Member

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    [QUOTE = "nordicboy, post: 480191, member: 69487"] ¿Alguien ha intentado que Shapeways lo imprima? [/ QUOTE]
    nadie deberia hacerlo excepto el propietario


    nadie deberia hacerlo excepto el propietario
     
  12. nordicboy
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    nordicboy New member

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  13. hardbodysub
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    hardbodysub BrokeTheMold

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    It’s not clear whether the spiked top just snaps on, without being locked, or if it fits on so that the lock prevents it from being removed. Not very useful if it doesn’t lock.

    The idea of the half-shell/clamshell design could be very helpful in designing a pullout-safe device. The bottom half would house a pivoting ring that fits snug behind the glans and pivots back and down if you try to pull out, like the retainer ring on some Lori’s devices for the nonpierced. Once the penis is in place in the bottom and the retainer ring, the top is added and the entire unit locked together.
     
  14. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    The top is held closed by the locking pin on the base ring. Fit the base ring then fit the lower half of the tube onto the locking pin but not fully engaged then position the penis in the bottom half. Once snug fit and close the lid, then bring both halves of the tube back against the base ring which locks the lid down and insert the lock.

    You are right about trying to have some sort of anti pull out, I started doing some designs but never completed them and have not had the impetus to complete. I do believe that Lori did have a clamshell design with the anti pull out ring.
     
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  15. hardbodysub
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    hardbodysub BrokeTheMold

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    Good to hear that the top locks on. I thought it probably did, but couldn’t tell from the photos.

    Yes, Lori did have a couple clamshell style devices that included a retainer ring option for the nonpierced, which could be interchanged with a PA pin. They are not on her website now, and I suspect that whoever has replaced craftsman “Mike” does not make them.
     
  16. Freaky Rabbit
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    Freaky Rabbit Long term member

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    I have been thinking to design my own "retainer ring" option as well, but didn't get to it yet. Definitely interesting idea. It has to be designed that the ring doesn't pinch on the spikes. I thought about removing spikes from the tip of the cage.
     
  17. hardbodysub
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    hardbodysub BrokeTheMold

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    I’d go big time for the retainer ring. Spikes not for me, though.
     
  18. ratlos4712
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    ratlos4712 New member

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    Hi,
    what ist the best orientation for printung?
    After importing into cura the is a lot of support.
    Thank you!
     

    Attached Files:

  19. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    Your cover is upside down for printing and your base has a different angle to the best one. If you got these from Thingiverse, I left the comment to print them in the orientation supplied. I have attached some screenshots of the ways(s) I have printed the device and some notes.

    Capture1.JPG Capture2.JPG Capture3.JPG Capture4.JPG Capture5.JPG Capture6.JPG Capture7.JPG

    From Post #14 on page 1

    "I have found that they key to getting the spikes to turn out well was to orient the print so that the spikes were horizontal (i.e. on a vertical surface) or pointing upwards, hence they needed minimal support. This means that the cover has to be printed in an odd direction with no flat surface on the print bed. In the natural orientation with a flat surface on the print bed, the spikes are hanging down and need extensive support, which is not great for the spikes.

    Also, when you print the integrated lock mechanism, make sure that you stop supports being printed inside the lock holes as these are a bugger to remove. Also make sure that there are no tall thin supports. I slice with Cura and use the support eraser / blocker to prevent this. I do not choose build plate supports only, because the spikes closest to horizontal still need some support up to an angle of 60 degree to stop the tips drooping.
    "

    Two options are shown for the cover. The flat cover direction is the better print for the spikes and tube but looks less good on because the layer orientation does not follow the base section. The vertical orientation looks better as the layers follow the same orientation as the base but it needs supports for the spikes and it has a high risk of being pushed out of position if there is a nozzle strike due to the small support area.

    The tube really only has the one direction as shown and this does need some support for the spikes. There is no ideal direction to print this to keep all of the spikes support free. Note, the support blocker has bene used to prevent supports within the lock hole.
     
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  20. Adam202024
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    Adam202024 New member

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    Sounds like an amazing device great work, hoping your well and enjoying your week. Have you ever considered making a urethral tube for this cage? You could even make the urethral tube so that the head of the tube and the pee hole are threaded so that the urethral tube could be joined and secured to the cage by pushing the tube through the pee hole and the tubes end would flush mount screw into place on/in the pee hole of the cage so that when you put the cage on the urethral tube would be inserted to the person then slid home while the cage is also slid home and locked therefore locking everything in place including the urethral tube
     
  21. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    No I have not considered a urethral tube because that would need to be polished metal not 3D printed plastic.
     
  22. Adam202024
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    Adam202024 New member

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    @castmenow why would it need to be metal ? I've always understood urethral tubes are supposed to be made of flexible plastic since it is going into the urethra etc.

    Aa far as I can tell the only piece that might have to be metal is the threaded end that screws into the cages pee hole, I mean I could be wrong your the expert
     
  23. castmenow
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    castmenow Junior Member

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    Yes, but not rough 3D printed plastic. I have published the designs, feel free to adapt them to your needs.
     
  24. Adam202024
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    Adam202024 New member

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    Has anyone considered adding smart features to this ?
    Like remote lock/unlock or GPS tracking etc.
     
  25. bondinchas
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    bondinchas Long term member

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    The problem with most 3D plastics it that they will be porous and difficult to make completely smooth, both of which will make hygiene more risky than for a steel ureteral tube. A rigid tube wouldn't be an issue as long as it's not too long.
     
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