Adventures in 3D printing chastity belts

Hello there,

I have been working on this off and on for a few months, and decided it was time to share my work thus far and ask for new ideas. If you want to get to the good stuff, just skip down to the pictures. Otherwise, I have an informative preamble for you.

I am a 28 years old male. And, I would assume, like most people on here, I have been interested in bondage/ chastity belts since my teens. I think it is just something you grow up with. At the time, I didn't know about chastity belts per say, but I did very much enjoy the feel of an athletic cup/jock strap. Skip forward a few years, and while browsing the internet I came across Altarboy's page (now long dead) which talked about chastity belts and making them, and I have been hooked since.

Being broke in college, I had no money to buy one, so I decided to build one instead. I had no idea what I was doing, but the internet gave me lots of ideas. The full metal belts looked appealing, but were well beyond my capability. The best I could do is make some PVC piping and chains which were not comfortable or practical for any use.

I tried using athletic cups, but the problem with those is that they dig into your thighs when pulled tight. Furthermore, I was never able to find a cup that had room for the penis to lay down between the balls. Every design (including nutty buddy) has your penis kinda squished up at the top. This is fine until you get an erection, then the cup doesn't sit down fully. If you strap it down, then it just gets really uncomfortable really fast as your penis has no where to go.

The problem is most cups are designed to be as low profile as possible, So they are flat and wide. The flat doesn't give you room, and the wide just chafes your thighs. There is also the problem that the edges of the cup are shallow compared to your skin. As such, it is easy for your scrotum skin to expand, and get caught under the edge. Which hurts a lot.

I looked at the ball trapping devices (CB 2000 and all the ones that have come out since) and those didn't look too appealing. They pull off very easily if you go limp. And if you get an erection, they put a lot of force on your balls, which I always found to be very sensitive. I am not a masochist, so being in pain while having an erection doesn't appeal to me. I am looking for that gentle control, not painful backlash. And of course those devices could easily be circumvented by nothing more then cold water, making them pretty useless.

Fast forward a couple more years and I got a real job (aerospace engineer) with some money to spend, so decided it was time to get a real chastity belt. The ball trapping devices have improved some, but they still rely on squeezing your balls and can be easily pulled out of. So, that's still a no go.

Meanwhile, the quality of full belts seems to have declined. The belts that I used to look at, like Latowski and Reynolds, seem to have gone out of business. Most of the belts available today seem to be just crude penis tubes fashioned to steel plates that cut between the legs. This of course would have problem as there is nothing to prevent your balls from getting stuck/chafed/squished, and also the force holding everything down rests on the base of your penis which causes irritation.

The best I saw was My-steel's untouchable. But that has problems like your urine going all over your scrotum. Their ball cover also has a very thin edge which means the force holding everything in place is very concentrated. Also, there didn't seem to be anything to prevent the scrotum skin from expanding and getting pinched/caught.

At the same time, I am an engineer, and wanted to expand my nerd capabilities, and I was looking at 3D printers. So, I decided to get a 3D printer, and make my own chastity belt. I figured it would be better for the following reasons.

1. I could make a full belt that covered the genitals completely. This is always something that I wanted, like a Latowski or Reynolds. I want to not be able to see or touch anything.
2. I could make it a custom fit, so that I wouldn't have to worry about chafing or trying to get it refitted.
3. I could make the cup with thick edges that distribute the load evenly over a large area. That way I can pull it tight and get a secure fit without causing discomfort.
4. I could include a lip on the inside of the cup that would keep the scrotum in place and prevent it from pinching.
5. I could have a separate chamber for the penis that led directly downwards, thus not spraying urine anywhere
6. I could have a gap between my scrotum and the penis tube, so it wouldn't press on the soft and tender underside section where the scrotum and penis meet.
7. I could wear the device as protection for when I play sports (not often, but occasionally). And for that you want a thick arched section (not thin sheet metal) and a large area to spread the load over. I didn't see anything like that in any of the belts on the market.

Basically, I wanted the belt to look like a latowski (see below), but with a thick outer shell instead of the sheet metal, and with tuck under sides to prevent scrotal pinching.


So, I started with trying to get the shape of my thigh to know where to put the cup perimeter. This would be a job for a 3D scanner. But I don't have one of those (would definitely get one if I were to make a business out of this). Instead, I made a template using some thin bailing wire and duct tape. The same way you would make a template for a corset. Needless to say, it went poorly, but I got some measurements and did some CAD. I then made a template and printed it out. my first attempt looked like this:

Front View

Side view.

As you can see, there is the tuck under where it goes underneath me, and a hole for my penis/scrotum. It turns out that I got the curvature wrong as it didn't fit well. But it gave me something to tweak.

A couple tries later, I had a better curvature, but was having problems with chaffing on the thighs if I tried doing any physical activity. So, I tried making it a bit thinner:

Front View

Side view.

Better, but not quite. Still some chafing, but not so much from the width, as the sharp edge. Also, the hole needed to be bigger. So, I tried it with more rolled edges:

Front View

Side View

After I had a comfortable base that I could wear for a couple hours and do physical activity in without it chafing/hurting, I started making the cup. The perimeter (part touching my crotch) of the cup follows the same contour as the above examples.

Here again, I went through multiple iterations. Here is one of my early ones:

This is a side view, cut in half

As you can see, at the base of the scrotum, there is a little back flap. This helps to both distribute the load from the cup over a wider area (more comfortable, and better for sports impacts) as well as prevent the scrotum from getting caught and pinched. So I printed it out, tried it on, made some notes, then threw it in the trash as it was very uncomfortable.

I had to adjust both the angle and the height of the penis tube. As you can see in this example, the penis goes almost horizontal before bending down. I found this to be very uncomfortable when getting an erection as it basically forced your penis to do a 120 degree bend. I also misjudged the appropriate height of the tube. And my balls were pretty squished in tight.

So, a few iterations later, and some more failed prints/test/etc. I came up with something like this:

It felt better. As you can see, there is more room for the penis, and the bend is far less severe. It looks more like a latowski now, and I guess I know why he designed it that way.

However, there where still problems with things being cramped in the ball section. Also, the penis tube kept feeling too tight up top (especially with that sharp inlet edge) and too loose at the exit. Likewise, the scrotum back flap looked kinda flimsy, doubtful it would help much in an impact. And the front shell was way to thin (1/8") to distribute and loads.

So a couple trials and attempts later led to my current design:

Note the beefier front section and back flap. Also, the cross section of the penis tube decreases as you go further down (much like your anatomy) in order to provide a good fit. I also came up with a solution to the ball area. By introducing a bulge as seen here:


This is a cross section view looking top down, cut half way down the penis tube.

As you can see, the bulge outwards added about half an inch (its alot) width without increasing the width pressed against the thigh. Thus you get the width for the balls without chafing. At the same time, it also had the benefit of creating a lip to prevent the scrotum from getting under and being pinched at the sides.

You can see the model compared to the actual print here:




I have worn this cup with a jockstrap off and on (2 days maximum) for a few weeks now and it fits very well. But being an engineer, I have tried to do even better. I attempted to make a silicon liner, with a plastic backing. The first attempts failed badly. I didn't get the pour right, I got air bubbles trapped, I had seams in all the wrong placed. So after several retries, and spending alot of time reprinting molds over and over, I am still not there yet. But here is where I am at:

The red would be the plastic. The blue would be the silicone insert. I have gotten decent results, but only with low viscosity silicone which aren't food/medical grade. To do it properly, I will need a vacuum pump, which I just ordered. If you want to see part of the mold, it looks like this:

Single part mold for penis/scrotum cavity/belly plate. This eliminates all seems where it touches my skin (lesson I leaned)

Doing the silicone insert has a couple advantages, For starters, you can much more easily polish a male insert than the inside of the tube, leading to a smoother finish. You can also use cheaper ABS which polishes up nicely for the mold, and stronger Nylon for the belt. Thus getting smoothness where you need it, and strength where you need it. It is also probably better to have your skin against food/medical grade silicone than plastic for long duration. And lastly, the ability of the silicone to flex means you get less pressure points, especially at the base of your scrotum/penis where the sharp(ish) edges can cause tenderness.

So, now I need to figure out what to do next. I have a couple ideas, including:
1. Add lots of air/ventilation holes to the scrotum section. Small enough that the skin can't get caught, but large enough to get some fresh air and drain water (which it can't do currently). But this will be tricky if I want to use a silicone liner, so need to figure that out.
2. Add a fluid injection system for the penis chamber (like Lawtoski has). I need to figure out a good way to do that. But it would allow for rinsing and adding more mineral oil (baby oil), which really helps keep it comfortable.

I also need to start working on the belt itself. That is where I am having some problems as the hip is a complex 3D shape and plastic can't easily bent into shape like metal can. A 3d scanner might help, but those are expensive, and my guess and check method for the belt was a long tedious process.

I was thinking of maybe going with a cloth harness that I could sow loops into and hold the belt up. Something like a cross between this:
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ar-wear-confidence-protection-that-can-be-worn
and a hernia belt. It would be more breathable than plastic, but might also retain more moisture after showers. I don't know, I haven't figured that part out yet. Any suggestions welcome.

So, that;s all I have for now. Feel free to ask questions, or give suggestions for improvement.

 

Thanks for the responses.

For those of you who have any experience with making your own belts, I was hoping you might offer any advice or insights you found in your attempts. Stuff like how to design a waist belt that is comfortable, tips for designing back passages, etc. Or if not, perhaps you know of some links to sites that do talk about such things.

Also, I don't know if anybody here posts on http://chastityforums.com, but if you do, could you do me a favor. I tried signing up in order to post the same information on that website (more traffic) but it wont send me a confirmation email. The FAQ recommends that I email an admin, but you need to be logged in to see the list of admins. If you could click on the "The Team" link on the bottom of their website, and then PM me the email of an administrator, that would be helpful.

 

I can't seem to get signed up at all. O well. Could one of you who has an account make a post and link to this page? Something to the effect of, 'Hey, check this thing out. Also, feel free leave comments below so the Original poster can read them.'

Also, good news, got my vacuum pump, and I am working on some test coupons to figure out some issues.

 

So it has been a while, time for an update!

For starters, I moved and am now living in Austin for a new job. So, that has kept me busy, and I haven't had much time to work on this. But I did make some progress.

I gave up on trying to make a silicone liner. I got the vacuum pump, and got some really good results with my test pieces, but I don't think it is worth the extra difficulty. Sanded and smoothed plastic is proving just as usable, with far less difficulty. I might retry it eventually though, depending on how long term wear and comfort works out.

The biggest advancement I made was in the design of the belt itself. I got myself a 3d scanner. Specifically, the primesense carmine 1.09. It is like the Kinect 3d camera, but better. It can resolve shapes down to less than a millimeter. I have tried a dozen different ways of measuring myself, and what I found is that the human body is far more difficult to measure than I first assumed. Part of the problem is that I am used to working with hard metals that don't change shape much. By comparison, the human body changes shape between standing, sitting, lying down, etc. It also is much squishier than metals, such that trying to match the shape exactly will just cause pressure on the hip bones.

So, long story short. I found that preloading with tight fitting underwear (actually got some spanx and cut a whole out for my junk), as well as a bunch of other technical stuff gets a pretty good shape. You can see the rough scan output here:



Notice I cut it in half, and will mirror it later. Also, you can see the edge where my belly sticks out over where the underwear pulled it in tight.

Then, apply some smoothing:


And print a belt to match:


Note that it is currently held together by duct tape as this is a prototype. I am just testing it for fit. I also didn't include the penis tube or cup in this model as I want to get the fit right before I hide things away and can't see how they are sitting.

Also, I had to learn a bunch of new techniques for 3D printing in order to do this. Large thin objects tend to warp if you don't handle them right. So, this was a learning challenge all around.

Thus far, I have worn this belt for 2 days. I think I need to do something better for the back string as that isn't working well. And I need to measure the stomach a bit better as there is a gap when I lay down. But the good news is that the waist straps feel perfect on my hips. It isn't digging in at all like my previous attempts. I think the 3d shaping really helped there. It is also sitting pretty well on my crotch without any pinching or chafing on the inner thigh (like you would get with an athletic cup). It also stays in position very nicely without riding up on me when I sit down or move about.

Overall, it is a good start. I hope to have the process ironed out after a few more tries and get a very snug and comfortable belt. After that, I can add the penis tube and cup back on, then a locking mechanism.

 

yeah, as I mentioned in my first post, reinholds was definitely an inspiration. One of the key differences though is that reinholds basically holds the penis straight down, with the testes being pushed to the side. As a result, the testes and penis sit side by side. This is similar to what you see in most full belts that are just T shaped straps with a penis tube. The problem is that this arrangement creates a wide base, and when you try to cover it (as reinholds does), you wind up chafing the thighs (common complaint in the reviews). Compare that with Latowski's approach which is to have the testes side by side, with the penis infront.


I made a fancy graphic.

As you can see, the penis infront is narrower. I took this a step further by having a small tuck under (seen in first post). This is about a half inch (matters more than you would think) narrower than a latowski style where it touches the thighs, and about 2" narrower than a reinholds style. Much more comfortable that way. I've gone jogging in my current prototype without any issues, and I am still making improvements.

As a result, it does stand out more than a reinholds or other typical metal belt would (like a neosteel). But less than something like a CB-6000.

I also had an idea on the back passage design, but that is still a work in progress, will report later when I have functioning designs tested.

As far as taking measurements go. The 3d scanner is much better than the picture stitching method. I tried stitching pictures for 2 weeks and couldn't get a single good result. It would be nice if it worked, as a camera is cheaper than a 3d scanner. But it isn't as simple as it seems. If you have perfect lighting, a perfectly stationary object, lots of color variation on the object, and you aren't concerned about small details or perfect scaling then it works well.

But perfect lighting is hard to do, you can't stand perfectly still, skin doesn't have alot of color variation. And scaling is very important when trying to get a perfect fit.

With the 3d scanner, and shape tracking software, I can get a perfectly done scan in 5 minutes. No scaling issues, no lighting issues, and as it tracks your body as you move, you don't need to be perfectly still. As such, I have been able to try a dozen different measurement techniques to see which positions work, and so forth. (Couldn't even do 1 with the camera).

So, all that to say, you can't take some high res photos and have a chastity belt made with them. You would have to come get scanned and fitted in person if you wanted one.

 

Once more! Update time

Progress has been occurring. I finally finished moving, so I have had more time to work on this.

Since my last update, I have made the following improvements:

The first belt was loose at the gut, which left a big gap when laying down. I decided to fix this by rescanning myself in a lying position, but with better accuracy. So, I fine tuned, calibrated, and fixed up the scanning methodology and came up with this:



And then the clean up afterwards (right side done, will be mirrored over to the left). You can also see the much higher resolution in this attempt.



I also changed the design of the belt quite a bit.

Instead of using tape to hold the plastic together, I have decided to use cables to post tension the structure. So you can see what I am talking about, here:



The belly plate, hip belts, and back plate are separated by small gaps, with wires running across them. The top wire runs from the belly plate, around the hip belts, through the back, and to the front again through the other hip belt. Likewise, the bottom wire runs from the belly plate, through one hip belt and back plate, down to the crotch plate, back up to the back plate, and then across the other hip to the belly plate again. You can see this better in this model with the cables shown:



And some more pirctures here:







This last one shows a close up of the belly plate. One of the nice features about this method is that the cable lengths can be individually varied by adding in shims. Those are just little U shaped plastic pieces that sit between the cable end and the side rest. ass you can see here, more shims pulls the belt in tighter. This allows you to make the gaps between the belt pieces larger or smaller, and thus adjust the tightness of the belt. Since the shims can come in any thickness, you can vary the size of the belt by any amount. Here I have 1/4" and 1/8" shims shown. So it is easy to control the tightness in 1/8" increments (could be smaller if needed).

Likewise, since the back cable (that goes down your but) is connected in a similar fashion, you can control the tightness of that back cable as well by adding or removing shims. As such, the top cable controls belt size, the bottom cable controls back cable length. It is fully adjustable.

Also shown is how the connection between the crotch plate and belly plate can be adjusted. While not included in this model, it is possible to do a similar shimming approach to make the crotch pulled up tighter or looser to the belly plate.

Of course in the final version, there would be a locking plate that covers the cable ends and V from the crotch. But this is still a fit check prototype.

So how does it fit?



Pretty well.

Another benefit of this cable approach (aside from being easily adjustable) is that the back passage is much better. As there are now 2 cables instead of 1, it goes around the anal opening, allowing for easier bathroom usage. It also goes to either side the tip of the tail bone, so you don't get pressure on that point.

Overall, I just finished cleaning it up and taking some pictures, I will try wearing it over the next few days including the shower and using the toilet (couldn't do that in last prototype as duct tape wont work in showers. And the back passage was a complete mess). And will probably find a bunch of thing to improve and make better. I already have some ideas for my next design just based off lessons learned from printing and assembling this one.

But we will take it from there. Wish me luck

 

I looked at non metal cable. The reason I chose this is because it came with a nylon coating that could be stripped off. If you look, you can see that the cable between the back and crotch is nylon coated. I thought this would be important for hygiene as it still might get crap on it during normal operation. It also gives a relatively thicker, and thus more comfortable cable across your butt. However, you can strip the coating off (happens inside the back plate) and as such have a much smaller diameter wire going through the waist and belly plate. Gives a lower profile.

It also allows the use of a multi-stranded cable which is much more flexible and easy to install. If you tried using a solid cable, it wouldn't bend. And an uncoated, multi-stranded nylon cable would have small gaps that your crap could get trapped in.

If you know of a flexible non metal cable that comes with a waterproof external coating, let me know.

 

The uline is a mufti-stranded uncoated cable. That means it is a bunch of small wires held together with little air gaps between them. Those gaps can fill with things like feces, and other such smelly stuff that they would be exposed to. Which is why you want a coated cable, the coating is solid, and thus wont let anything into the gap between the individual wires.

The savacable are nylon coated steel. Same as I use in my design.

 

Thanks for the links, but elastic cords kinda defeat the purpose. It isn't much chastity if it is elastic. I could probably find something if I looked hard enough. I did find plastic coated, non metallic, cable used for water skiing tow ropes. But those really don't have tight dimensional tolerances. But ultimately, I am focusing on more important problems now such as manufacturing materials, comfort, security, cleanliness, etc. Making them non metallic is something I can do later by simply swapping out the cable (probably). I will put it on my to do list after I finish getting a good belt that I like.