MCN Contender Review

Discussion in 'Male Chastity Now' started by Naljeans, Dec 30, 2018.

  1. Naljeans
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    Naljeans Active member

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    Summary: pretty much perfect.

    The Contender is my first custom cage after a few months in Chinese cage that performed fairly well.

    Mark at MCN was fantastic in answering questions before ordering. Once ordered, he shipped 24 hours later.

    Pros:
    - Very light. Keeps it from sliding down and is very comfortable. This factor cannot be overstated.

    - Easy to keep clean. With proper attention, there’s no need to remove it for cleaning.

    - perfect fit (see below for sizing tips)

    - Multiple locking options - the screw is a sleek design

    - Open design makes easy urination and CBT entirely possible

    Cons:
    - like any balltrap device, it’s possible to pull out. Really, if that’s an issue, the wearer probably doesn’t deserve a keyholder

    - properly fit, it works too well. Ha

    Sizing:

    The MCN site gives great suggestions. Use them. Get the test rings and take time getting the measurements right.

    General tip: go 1/2” shorter than whatever you think your average flaccid length is even after measuring. Go 1/8” more narrow than your girth.
     

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  2. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    I have a MCN contender myself (see my pics) and mine is 99% perfect. If you add a PA pin then it becomes 100% secure.
     
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  3. Peter Rabbit
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    Peter Rabbit I'm her bunny

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    Very nice review. Thanks for posting!

    I love the very tight fit we’ve got from the Contender (pics), and the comment on weight balance is spot on.

    On security: you can always add the optional PA security later! I added the PA-security option after my initial order, and confirmed fit. There’s no chance of pulling out.

    Mark turned the work around very quickly for us too. Getting the PA option added within a week was great at the time... because my wife had just held me down and told me she wanted me caged again. She was eager for it be returned. She had never embraced a chastity cage before. She had never initiated chastity before. The rest were toys to her. The Contender is very real. :)
     
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  4. Xileh
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    Xileh Happily Serving

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    I too have a Contender. Mark is awesome. He is very helpful and fast to ship.

    The cage is made out of high grade stainless. Mine is a year old and still looks as new. It is a nice balance of light weight and security. I’ve tested his welds and unfortunately, they are top notch.

    The nice aspect of his design, you can tweak the fit a bit with some careful bending. Cages using the magic lock may not allow adjustment.

    Totally worth the investment.
     
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  5. MaleChastityNow
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    MaleChastityNow making Bling for his thing

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    A note on sizing...I personally feel that making a device 1/2 inch shorter than your flaccid length may not work for you, possibly more-so if it's your first device.

    That's a substantial amount of length, in my opinion, and for some people this type of 'cage stuffing' can become uncomfortable. Such discomfort is created by being continually pressed into the front of the cage, with the tip of the penis perpetually rubbing against the cages narrow bars.

    I've made devices for experienced chastity enthusiast's who intentionally wanted to cage stuff their penises, and my experience indicates that cage stuffing appears to work better for men who are fine tuning their next purchase, rather than initiates new to chastity.

    It's why I advocate for making a device which essentially encapsulates your penis in it's natural, resting state, with little to no room for growth in either length or width. As many men can attest, when a design is built this way it remains comfortable for long term wear, and whereas arousal may cause a sensation of discomfort it does not create pain.
     
  6. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    The only thing that I believe can be improved on my contender is the locking mechanism on the PA pin.

    I have had to replace the screw on the PA pin because if it is over tightened then the screw gets stripped and the PA pin is able to rock back and forth. This can be extremely painful during erections as the pin will be pushed forward and pinch the bottom of the urethra between the pin and the middle bar of the cage.

    If a bar were added to the bottom of the cage right in front of where the pin sits it could prevent the pinching in the event the pin gets pushed too firmly.

    Or, using an integrated lock instead of the PA pin screw could accomplish the same goal as the design would prevent the pin from moving as well.

    Just to be clear, this is still the most comfortable device I have worn and I highly recommend it.

    Just giving honest feedback from a very satisfied customer.
     
  7. Peter Rabbit
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    Peter Rabbit I'm her bunny

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    Are you in a Contender?

    1.
    I’ve had to clean up the threads once. When we chased the threads, based on Mark’s advice, the problem cleared up entirely.

    We had been using a handheld driver and security bit, and I think we may have used too much force. I dunno. Last year she was locking me daily after teasing, so we put a lot of use on one fastener.

    We also started using the long hex hey driver and we haven’t had a recurring issue.

    2.
    As much as the integrated lock is a popular design element, I’m struck by how much lower profile and how perfectly smooth the PA mount system Mark design is. It doesn’t poke or snag me.

    The Steelworxx Tube Jacket and the Evotion Wearables (original steel, original 3d print) are great work, but are bulkier by necessity to contain the brass cylinder. Both are over the twice the volume of the MCN PA mount.

    I personally found the Tube Jacket design uncomfortable with the assembly underneath. I’d feel the interface between brass and steel, and the PA hook extension.

    Mark had an earlier design with a smaller screw that rose straight up into the PA pin from the bottom, set inside a recessed button of a cylinder. That worked well but was harder for my wife to install (and limited her preferred play to let me out a lot for teasing and relooking.) The pin could move side to side if you didn’t fasten the screw tight enough.

    3.
    Mark added rods along the underside for me, to prevent my oversensitive frenulum from poking through the cage rods. He could do the same for you perhaps, but two downsides....

    If you added a rod sideways in front of the piercing, you would need to sure not pinch the skin between the piercing and your urethra. That would hurt like mad.

    Something in my long memory of chastity experimentation is ringing in my brain.

    I would keep the PA pin motionless by fastening it nicely, and not stripping the threads. I could never suffer the wierd pinching in other designs where the pin moved at all.
     
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  8. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    I grabbed a hair pin from Mrs. B.

    I think if a bar were to be placed here it could solve the "rocking" problem as it would prevent the bar from sinking and pinching the tip of the urethra.

    Makes sense?
     

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  9. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    Better angle.
     

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  10. MaleChastityNow
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    MaleChastityNow making Bling for his thing

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    #10 MaleChastityNow, Mar 15, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2019
     
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  11. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    Thanks, I'll let you know if this is a modification I'm interested in. I haven't had any issues lately but I'll keep you posted.
     
  12. Peter Rabbit
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    Peter Rabbit I'm her bunny

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    Deeper threads. Interesting! I’ve learned a lot about fasteners since my foray into chastity. :)

    I just checked how I’m resting in my cage. My own piercing rises above the cylinder a good deal. I actually have no contact with my piercing hole and any steel except the pin itself. Actually I can point this out as a positive here over the Lori, Steelworxx Jacket, Evotion (stock), and MCN MouseTrap designs. That air gap allows precum to flow away, and it doesn’t press against my piercing when I get hard. (And oh do I generate a huge amount of precum!)

    The others have floors at the internal diameter. I felt I got “stuck” against the floor through which the pin rose. And the Lori pins sometimes moved slightly which cased me discomfort.

    Having the cylinders hang lower gives extra space and prevents that sensitive skin from getting smushed or stuck.

    Anyway. If you put a crossing rod where you indicated, I don’t think I’d get pinched either.

    So sorry for my excessive caution jb123. Something in my hindbrain leaped up based on a fuzzy memory of pain of getting that skin pinched. So I may have overreacted.

    All that long-winded stuff aside...

    I recommend the primary action is to ensure the threads on the screw and the cylinder are in good condition first. I wouldn’t want the pin to move at all. So a blocking cross rod would be a secondary protection for me.

    Cleaning up the threads was straightforward for me once I got the right tool (tap and die).
     
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  13. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    I'm the same way. My frenium rises a 2-3mm above the bottom of the cage, I think the risk of pinching is minimal. I was even thinking that maybe an indention could be added to the pin where the pin meets the new rod, but that would be Mark's call if that could be possible as it would require very precise work.
     
  14. Peter Rabbit
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    Peter Rabbit I'm her bunny

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    For clarity, The frenulum is behind the PA piercing, further back from the tip. I was talking about the skin between the piercing and the urethra. Where the PA pin enters and exits.

    My frenum / frenulum area smashes against cage rods. My shaft is gripped snugly and does not rise above the floor of the cage.

    You can see this in my album photos.
     
  15. jb123
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    jb123 Long term member

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    Oh I see, I'm the same way.
     
  16. Changeable
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    Changeable Long term member

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    Thanks for the review and all the great comments-
    Do you like the security screws themselves?
    Is there enough room in the cap of the screw for the key to get a sufficient bite on the screw?
    Is the screw large enough to handle with your fingers?
    Can you get the screw lined up and started daily using just your fingers?
    Sorry about all of the questions, I get a little paranoid about security screws as opposed to padlocks from previous experience
     
  17. Peter Rabbit
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    Peter Rabbit I'm her bunny

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    Yes. I do like them.
    Yes. We finger thread them in first to ensure we aren’t crossthreading. They are #8-32
    Yes. Fingers are good tools and you can feel things better.

    Padlocks are fine too. I just prefer the screws. She used to lock and relock me every single day, reliably. We’ve had a lot of “wear” to vouch for the screws.

    If you want the highest security and won’t be unlocking daily, then there’s always the high security option with a numbered seal. Mark uses a hex shaped head. I think it’s a standard stainless-steel tap-bolt that he custom drills a hole through to accept the wire/cable.

    upload_2019-8-18_12-58-53.jpeg
     
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  18. Naljeans
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    Naljeans Active member

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    The tool works better with the screw that doesn’t have the open hole for the security tag. Both work just fine though - plenty of bite. We don’t fingerthread it but perhaps we should. We generally only mess with the screw once or twice a month but have had no issues.

    I previously had a padlock seize up so I’m paranoid about them. Haha.
     
  19. andy66
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    andy66 Long term member

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    Anyone tried an oval base ring; any pros or cons ?
     
  20. Peaches
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    Peaches "kinky guy"

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    Oval base rings are great in my opinion. That's what I use.
     
  21. andy66
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    andy66 Long term member

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    Could you what makes the oval better, have you had a circular one previously?
     
  22. Locked4xxx
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    You convinced me. Haha.
     
  23. andy66
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    andy66 Long term member

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    Great image, Is your base ring oval?
     
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  24. Locked4xxx
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    Yeah.
     
  25. andy66
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    F861A48E-C32B-4784-90DE-EADB56E09133.jpeg Not sure if it’s too snug, arrived 4 days ago. I put it on and gave her the key, which was taken willingly.
     
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